We are down to the end of our stay in Sweden. We have one more weekend left here, before we leave for Italy, and 2 of our friends (Dustin and Irene) are coming to visit, separately but at the same time, for a few days over that last weekend (Dustin lives in Atlanta, and is coming to work with Don for a few days, and Irene is working this fall in Rostock in Germany). This past weekend, we decided to do something we had not had the chance to do before: we took a 50 minute boat ride out to the island of Vaxholm, which lies at the gateway from the Baltic Sea into the inner archipelago that Stockholm is a part of. Vaxholm has been lived on for over a thousand years, but was settled forcibly by the Vasa kings in the 1500s, in order to guard the inner archipelago. A fortress was built on a small islet just off the larger island, and was involved in wars in the 1600s and 1700s.
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That fort was updated in the 1800s, but was immediately obsolete, in terms of the art of warfare.
Today Vaxholm is a major tourist destination, and is accessible by road as well as by boat. It is a jumping-off point for the rest of the outer archipelago, and has a seriously cute village with artisans, cafes, inns, and gorgeous, typically Swedish vacation homes. 
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We walked for about 3 or so hours, 
and also had lunch, before getting back on the boat back to Stockholm. The temperature was right above freezing all day, with a blue sky and dry air (which is what we have mostly been having for weather lately). There was actually a puddle that was frozen, in the shade, in midday!
Oddly, being there was more like being on a lake in Maine than at the coast; although it LOOKED like the coast,
it did not smell like it. The water is not particularly salty, and so you don't get the sort of salt-air one expects at the coast.
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